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Scenario Design 101 - Art of War #3 Map Making Part Two

 
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Scenario Design 101 - Art of War #3 Map Making Part Two - 4/16/2001 2:30:00 PM   
Wild Bill

 

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Map Making! That is where we are. We've talked earlier about the generalities of map making. Now we are going to do a little practice. Before you begin this tutorial section, read the post on the forum, "MAP BUTTONS." That is very important. Then come back here. Ready? YOUR TEXT FILE Here is the text for your scenario. We are going to number it Scen210. So this file will be Scen210.txt. Oh, be sure and type in your name in this text where it says, "Scenario Design:" --------------------- ______THE BREAKOUT* * ____Meeting Engagement:* ____US Army vs Germany* * _St Pois, France, Aug. 5, 1944* Location: Near St. Pois, France* _______Turns:10* * Scenario Design: ** The massive bombing raids near St. Lo have left most of the German defenders either stunned or dead.* * This is your chance as part of the US 70th Tank Battalion for the breakout from the hedgerows into open country.* * You will take your tank forces and move south. You are to seek out German armored forces, remnants of 2nd Panzer Division that might be in the area.* * When you find them, you are to destroy them and take the objectives* * ------------------------ VERY IMPORTANT! You will probably want to copy this text out, print it, and then follow along with SPWAW open before you. You are also to save it as Scen210.txt and put it in your SPWAW\Scen directory. We'll come back to it later. ---------------- 1. Start SPWAW. Go to Solitaire Play, then to editor. Now look in the center of the screen. These are your controls for setting up the map palette. Choose "summer," then "small," then "edit." You should see a blank green screen; it is not real big top to bottom. That is fine. This is a practice. Press the "." (period) key. Now you see that you have a hex grid superimposed on your map. This will help you to be precise in laying down terrain features. You turn it on and off the same way, pressing the "." key. Try it a few times. This will be a simple map. We are not going to do anything fancy here. You will become more adept and do fancier things later. Before we begin, let's put in a little geographical orientation, or north, south, east and west. From our Text we know that the Americans are moving from north to south. We also know that the game plays from side to side. So we'll make the left side the "north" side of the map. Click on the pencil-pad button. Now click on hex 3,25. You don't want to put it on the edge, because when you zoom out it may disappear on you. A text box (black) has appeared. Type < NORTH >, then hit the "Enter" key on your keyboard. The word "NORTH" should now appear in hex 3.25. I also usually type in the other directions too. You should do the same. Put < East > in hex 24,2 - in hex 47,20 and in hex 25,36. And while you are typing in text, go to the bottom right of the map and Click on hex 43,33 . Then click on hex 43,35 and type in (really, your name - you are the designer). Now we are ready to add some features. SAVE! Now before we go any further it is IMPORTANT that you save as you go. PLEASE! Save as you go. Each time we perform a step in this tutorial, stop and save. Then start on the next step. How do you save a map? One of your buttons (the floppy disk button) is the save button. Click on it, find an open slot and save there. Give it a name you will recognize. This one we will call breakout map. SAVE WHAT YOU HAVE DONE RIGHT NOW. Then come back here. --------------- 2. The first thing we are going to include are "natural" features, no manmade stuff such as roads, buildings, farms, etc. First click on the level 1 hill button. Now, with your cursor, find hex 8,9. Just move your mouse arrow over the map till you find it. When you do, right click in that hex. Now you should have a hill with 8,9 as the center and all adjacent hexes also hill terrain. Now move to hex 10,9 and do it again. Next to hex 9,11. You should have a triangular looking hill. Very few hills look like this. They are more uneven. So left (no right click here) click in hexes 11,7 - 6,9 - and 10,13. Now that looks a little more like a hill, doesn't it? Now use your "Zoom out" key and take a look. Also look at the larger map, lower right. See how that level 1 hill is outlined on your larger map? Now make 2 more hills, much like this one, but a little different shape. Put one in hex 27,13 and 14.28. Make them uneven but not exactly the same as your first one. You should now have three low level hills of varying size on your map. STOP AND SAVE! -------------------- 3. Next on the list is a stream, running top to bottom. As you know, streams don't normally run in a straight line but follow the contours of the earth. First find the stream button. Then click on it. Choose the option, "stream" ("0"). Move your cursor to 16,0. Click in that hex, move your cursor down to 15,1 (diagonal down left) and click. Now you have the beginnings of your stream. Now streams have a feature like roads, walls, or hedgerows. You can either click stream hexes in one at a time, or you can click in a line. We'll do the latter as an experiment. Click now on hex 13,13. You now have a stream line running almost straight up and down. It probably added terrain, either beach-like, rough, or swamp terrain. You may not like that. If you want to erase, go to the "normal" or "plain" button (5th one down, left hand column) and click over any hex you want to erase. Then go back, pick the stream button and click in your stream again. Then with the stream button chose, click on 13,13, then click on 6,19. Now your stream is longer and slanting to the left. Let's do it again, same procedure. Click on 6.19 and then 0,24. Now you should have a stream running from 16,0 to 0,24 in a diagonal sloping line. It is flowing around the hill at 8,9. STOP AND SAVE! --------------- 4. Finally for this lesson, let's put in some grass and trees. This is open country so we don't want too many. Click on the grass button (middle column, third button down), then right click in hexes 5,29 - 6,3 - 20,11 - 19,4 - and 16,18. Then do the same process at various points over the rest of the map. Oh, and don't forget the map edges or corners. I find many designers forget about those areas. Even though the focus may not be on the edges or corners, we want a nice looking map all over, not just in the center. Don't overdo it, and be sure and leave the edges of the grassy areas a little uneven, just as we did with the hills, with a few left clicks on each spread of grass. Now it should be looking like something for you. But we need trees. Nature teaches us that grassy areas usually have trees so we'll put trees in those areas. I'll help you with one area. Do the other grassy areas in more or less the same fashion. Click on the "tree" button, then click in a tree (or trees) in hexes 20,11 - 19,13 - 18,13 - 17,10 - 18,11 - and 21,11. Continue this process to varying degrees on all your grassy spots...oh and some along the banks of the stream. Don't put too many, but spread 'em out pretty good. STOP AND SAVE! Look at the post below from Rick and you'll see a general idea of how your map will look if you have followed the above instructions. Thanks Rick. Be sure and copy out the text file at the top of this lesson. That is enough for now. Keep practicing all this week as I instructed you earlier. Next week we'll put in the "man-made" features. I'll see you then.

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Wild Bill Wilder
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- 4/16/2001 2:59:00 PM   
Tankhead

 

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Ok Wild Bill I think the post was to long here is the picture the original one.

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- 4/16/2001 9:56:00 PM   
Wild Bill

 

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Many thanks, Rick...WB

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Wild Bill Wilder
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- 4/18/2001 6:57:00 AM   
Wild Bill

 

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Moving it up...WB

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Wild Bill Wilder
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- 4/18/2001 8:55:00 AM   
Don

 

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Hmmm, that already looks better than most of my maps! LOL Seriously, pay attention to the "Stop and Save" commands. In 5.0 if you hit the editor exit button you'll be promted to save, but in 4.5 if you hit the exit button in the editor you just lost all of your work back to your last save - and I've done that after working for 3 hours and not saving! Doh!

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- 4/18/2001 9:39:00 AM   
skukko


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Don has it :D I actually did my first "church" (100x160) map twice, at first attempt it took 7 hours and when I was planning to save it I simply exited the editor by mistake and tiredness...then it took 12 hours to do almost alike...in these times it is possible to save few times? eh? :eek: mosh nice pix Rick, is it from your backyard ? :p

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- 4/19/2001 4:52:00 AM   
Wild Bill

 

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Well, you know I am curious. I am wondering if anyone has tried to design this map and how it came out. Anyone? Anyone?...WB

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Wild Bill Wilder
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- 4/19/2001 4:34:00 PM   
TheZel66

 

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WB, Great class so far! Question: How do you see what the elevation is for a particular hex? I'm trying to use your suggestion in building walls that you cant see over, and it doesn't seem to work. I'm not 100% sure though until I can verify the elevation height. Thanks in advance.

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- 4/19/2001 6:49:00 PM   
ectizen

 

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quote:

Originally posted by Wild Bill: Well, you know I am curious. I am wondering if anyone has tried to design this map and how it came out. Anyone? Anyone?...WB
One highly compressed, low quality jpeg coming right up! I don't have as many trees, and my hills untouched so far, but I think it's looking ok. I quite pleased with the cluster of trees nestled between the bend in the stream and the side of the hill. :)

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- 4/19/2001 6:52:00 PM   
AlvinS

 

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WB Thank you for sharing your design experience. I am enjoying this class. My question is: are we using only half of the map that comes up when we select "Summer", "Small" then "Edit"? I am following the map coordinates in your lesson and they come to the middle of my map. If the answer is yes, then how do I get rid of the un-used portion of the map? P.S. Are you going to let us in on your method for laying mines in a scenario. I am always a nervous wreck playing one of your scenarios. While playing, I sometimes can run 2 units (follow the leader style) through an area with no problem then, BLAM! my third unit, usually an important one, goes up in smoke. Impressive. If the sound is turned up, I am usually suppresed for a couple of turns. :D

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AlvinS

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- 4/19/2001 8:20:00 PM   
lnp4668

 

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quote:

Originally posted by AlvinS: WB Thank you for sharing your design experience. I am enjoying this class. My question is: are we using only half of the map that comes up when we select "Summer", "Small" then "Edit"? I am following the map coordinates in your lesson and they come to the middle of my map. If the answer is yes, then how do I get rid of the un-used portion of the map? P.S. Are you going to let us in on your method for laying mines in a scenario. I am always a nervous wreck playing one of your scenarios. While playing, I sometimes can run 2 units (follow the leader style) through an area with no problem then, BLAM! my third unit, usually an important one, goes up in smoke. Impressive. If the sound is turned up, I am usually suppresed for a couple of turns. :D
I second that. My heart hate it everytime things go blam and I jump out of my chair :eek:

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- 4/19/2001 8:52:00 PM   
Silvarius

 

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Hello Wild Bill, Just a small post to support your very nice initiative. I unfortunately cannot write here very regularly, but please know that I read and practice all your posts about this topic with much interest. Thank you once again. Silvarius.

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- 4/19/2001 9:02:00 PM   
bchapman


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Wild Bill, I'm printing everything off and taking it to work to read and study. I will attempt the map as soon as I get off of these 12 hr night shifts and get about 10 hrs of uninterrupted sleep. :confused: Thanks for taking the time to share your experise and allowing the other guys to input their experiences. :cool: Bascom

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- 4/19/2001 9:11:00 PM   
Wild Bill

 

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Good responses, guys. Thanks. Zel, run your cursor over the map and to the hex where you have placed the hill and the wall. It should tell you the height. Let me know what it says. It looks very good, Citizen. You did well. Yes a few more trees, not too many and a little grass would fill it out nicely. Alvin, yes it should be set on "small" Simply start the editor, reset it from wherever the size is to "small." It sounds like you have a medium or large map. It will then be the right size. It won't hurt your map as long as you don't touch the random button. Be sure and resave after you do this. Try this and let me know. For you and Inp, the thing about mines. I set mines realistically, or where I feel they will do me the most good. Here are some examples. If my flank or part of my line is open, I put mines out to fill it in. For bunkers and pillboxes, I use mines to protect their exposed and indefensible sides. I don't put them in the rear. That just would not be realistic at all. When you have difficult terrain and easy terrain, I pepper the easy terrain with mines, not saturate, just pepper. I want to give the attacker a chance to get through. A solid wall of mines seems unfair to me. Thanks for the note, Silvarius! Just letting me know you are there occasionally is enough for me. That is just the incentive I need to keep going with this...WB

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Wild Bill Wilder
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- 4/19/2001 9:53:00 PM   
TheZel66

 

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Theoretical Questions: We discussed in these classes that natural map objects should be designed first, and then man-made objects. But what about scenerios that have specific key man-made objectives which play a major role in defining the game. Wont we need to think about these objects before/while we design the natural landscape? (example, goal is germans to capture/control a major road intersection) Also, wont we want to also keep in mind that natural objects need to not only look natural, but also need to lend themselves for a challenging/engaging/fun scenerio? (example two, we may want to place hills in certain positions to make attacking/defining objectives more challenging) Cheers

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- 4/20/2001 12:01:00 AM   
Don

 

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quote:

We discussed in these classes that natural map objects should be designed first, and then man-made objects. But what about scenerios that have specific key man-made objectives which play a major role in defining the game. Wont we need to think about these objects before/while we design the natural landscape? (example, goal is germans to capture/control a major road intersection)
Yes, you will need to know where your road is going to be as you lay down your elevations, rivers, etc. One of the hardest things in map design is to lay N-S roads, and intersections, and then have to re-do them because you added some hills. Sometimes it cannot be done, and part of the map has to be erased and redone.
quote:

Also, wont we want to also keep in mind that natural objects need to not only look natural, but also need to lend themselves for a challenging/engaging/fun scenerio? (example two, we may want to place hills in certain positions to make attacking/defining objectives more challenging)
That is a major point - many, many strictly historical battles cannot be done if made exactly the way they happened. That's why many scenarios are "based", or in my current scenario, "loosely based" on the original. If the terrain is impossible to duplicate in SPWAW, or the battle would be no fun to play as it happened, then a choice must be made to either not do it at all, or alter it into a good, playable scenario. I have no problem altering things to make a good scenario, because otherwise it would not be played at all.

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- 4/20/2001 1:13:00 AM   
AlvinS

 

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WB I tried your suggestion
quote:

Alvin, yes it should be set on "small" Simply start the editor, reset it from wherever the size is to "small." It sounds like you have a medium or large map. It will then be the right size. It won't hurt your map as long as you don't touch the random button. Be sure and resave after you do this. Try this and let me know.
I still get the same size map. :confused: It is 39 by 99. I even started from scratch and selected "Solitare", Then "Editor", Then "Summer" and Then "Small". I get the same size map everytime. When I come into the editor those choices are selected by default. I even reselected them, but to no avail. Any other suggestions as to what I am doing wrong? Thank you for your time.

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AlvinS

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- 4/20/2001 1:51:00 AM   
Don

 

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Sometimes I cannot change map sizes in the editor (or type)- it gets a "memory" and it just won't change. Just exit out os SPWAW, restart it and then load the map you want.

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- 4/20/2001 2:43:00 AM   
AlvinS

 

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Don I tried your suggestion, but I still get the same size map when I select small (39:99). Thanks for your reply. I'm sure I'll eventually get it figured out. If not, I will wait for the Mega Campaign to arrive in the mail and try it again then. ;)

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AlvinS

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- 4/20/2001 4:05:00 AM   
Wild Bill

 

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Well, my apologies, Alvin, I did use a smaller map, custom size. It may be in your map directory. It is a 50x40 (40 is the width, 40 is the length top-bottom). Either way, though you should be able to do the left side of the map fine with what I have given you. Then the right side, well do it as you wish, with more or less the same basic type of terrain. Of course the 50x40 map is better. I'll send it to you. It will be in version 5.0 along with some other sizes...WB

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Wild Bill Wilder
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- 4/20/2001 5:54:00 AM   
AlvinS

 

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Thanks Wild Bill I thought I was losing my mind. I even saved all of my games and re-loaded version 4.5 just in case I had messed something up during many hours of use. I am looking forward to the mega campaign. Can't wait to play in the sand. :D

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AlvinS

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- 4/20/2001 4:53:00 PM   
TheZel66

 

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quote:

Originally posted by Wild Bill: Zel, run your cursor over the map and to the hex where you have placed the hill and the wall. It should tell you the height. Let me know what it says.
WB, I tried placing the cursor over a hex, but no info shows up. Is there another button I need to press first, or is something configured wrong? Using SPWAW 4.5, I think upgraded from 4.1 or 4.3(??) :confused:

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- 4/20/2001 7:24:00 PM   
bchapman


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Wild Bill, Could you send me a copy of the small map too. I'm having the same trouble as AlvinS, getting a 39 X 99 map. :confused: Maybe you could post it on a site and we could download it? Thanks, Bascom

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- 4/20/2001 9:16:00 PM   
ectizen

 

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My "small" map is also 100x40. I thought that shrinking it to half the size was to be a future lesson. :)

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- 4/20/2001 9:40:00 PM   
DoubleDeuce


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The smaller maps WB is talking about were either in one of the earlier version or available for download from TGN's website (cannot remember for sure, was a while ago). I still have them (most of them) and use them frequently especially the 30x30 one. I am using this size template to make an 8x8 grid (64 maps total!)for a tourney I am doing. This will make it about a 12km sqaure operational map. Using Fred's SPWAW Map Editor and the map editor in SPWAW the possibilities for map design are limitless. Only thing missing is being taught how to use them. Ooops! :eek: I guess with these tutorials by WB we have all the tools we will ever need.

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- 4/20/2001 10:37:00 PM   
AlvinS

 

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To anyone who still needs the small map, let me know and I will email it as soon as I get home. Should be about 4:00 to 4:30 pm central time. ;)

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AlvinS

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- 4/20/2001 11:06:00 PM   
bchapman


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Alvin, If you don't mind, send me one please. I guess I should be enthusiastic enough to go ahead and work on the larger one, but I haven't caught up on my sleep yet. :D Thanks, Bascom

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- 4/21/2001 2:58:00 AM   
Banjo

 

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Hello all, While waiting anxiously for 5.0, I have been dabbling more off than on with the lessons on scenario design. While searching through the different wargaming sites I found some real good maps from the Utah beach landings. www.army.mil/cmh-pg/BOOKS Look for the Utah to Cherbourg book, great maps and all the details you could want.Now to the main point. A few months ago, I downloaded a freeware program from another wargame site that's called HEXGRID. This is a simple program that prints a sizable hexgrid over a picture file. I forget where I downloaded it from, and time is limited for now to find the website. After printing out a copy of a map from the Utah to Cherborg site, I scaled the size of the map to get the size from left to right. Then after running the hexgrid program, loaded the map into it, entered the size in km or miles. Next enter the size hexes you want, 50 meters for SPWAW, and presto!! A to scale map. Of course, lots of details still need to be worked on since that is only the begining of the process, but looking at my 3 or 4 maps of the same area using different maps, they seem to work out to be REAL CLOSE to each other. More than enough for sceario design. Using this along with photographs of the area, firsthand accounts, and such, scenario design is looming greater on my horizon. It was a real eye opener when I looked at how different the Same map used in the Utah to the Rhine of Ste.Mer-Eglise, and the ones generated the way I mentioned look. Which brings up another topic that I know will be covered soon in these lessons. Accuracy of maps,oobs, etc. The beauty of this game system and the better crew that brings it to us is that it keeps on growing. I can't wait to see this game concept ten years from now. Remember playing pong and then seeing space invaders. Look how far things have come. I hope that when I get done rambling here, the 5.0 will be up and ready to download. Since my order for the cd went out weeks ago, I'm gettting real antsy to play the new version. I will try to find the whereabouts of the Hexgrid program. As it's friday evening, and the beginning of the weekend, my free time is limited if I want to keep my girlfriend. I will try to figure out how to post views of my SPWAW map creations using this method when I get one finished. As far as I know, that part still has to be done manually through the editor.

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- 4/21/2001 3:45:00 AM   
Wild Bill

 

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Thanks Alvin for doing this for me, and to you Banjo. Yes, I'd be interested in seeing that hexgrid program. New Lesson, final one in mapmaking coming Monday. Be ready. Get that map done so you are up to date for the new stuff... Wild Bill

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- 4/21/2001 7:48:00 AM   
ectizen

 

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From: melbourne, australia
Status: offline
I've finished my map, and cut it down to size. Here's a quick way to reduce the size of a map, for the very adventurous out there: [ Note that this is probably a dangerous and stupid thing to do, and should not be attempted by anyone who doesn't feel completely comfortable using a hex editor to change binary files, or understand this warning or these instructions! :) Seriously. And backup before trying this... ] Still reading? Wow, I'm impressed - you are brave! Here we go:[list=1]
  • Load the pzmapXXX.dat in your binary editor. I won't tell you what I use - if you don't have a suitable editor already, you're out of your depth! Stop reading this!
  • To reduce the width, search for the hex sequence 26 00 00 00 04 00 00 00 00 00 00 00. The byte following this sequence is the width. Change it to suit your needs. Note: increasing this value will probably yield strange maps. Exceeding a decimal value of 100 should not be done - it may cause much pain and horrible consequences!
  • To reduce the height, search for the hex sequence 27 00 00 00 04 00 00 00 00 00 00 00. The byte following this sequence is the height. Change it to suit your needs. Note: increasing this value will probably yield strange maps. Exceeding a decimal value of 240 should not be done - it may cause much pain and horrible consequences!
  • Save your pzmapXXX.dat. [/list=a] That's all there is to it! Pretty simple, if you know what you're doing. If you don't know exactly what you're doing, don't even think about trying this. Note 1: The reduced map will be the upper left corner of the original map. Note 2: Backup any data you don't want to lose before attempting this procedure. Note 3: If you try this, you are a fool. I did, and I freeely admit my foolishness. If anything goes wrong, it's your problem, not mine. Did I mention that you should backup first? Hmm... I wonder if anyone read this far :) [edited 'cause it didn't have enough warnings...] [ April 20, 2001: Message edited by: ectizen ]

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    ectizen's SP:WaW Tools - Map Thing (1.0a), Scenario W

    (in reply to Wild Bill)
  • Post #: 30
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