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RE: OT... Plastic Models - 1/8/2008 11:09:12 PM   
Zap


Posts: 3639
Joined: 12/6/2004
From: LAS VEGAS TAKE A CHANCE
Status: offline 		Just wondering? Why brass. Is it easier to form? I imagine it looks better than, say, using tin.

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Post #: 31
RE: OT... Plastic Models - 1/8/2008 11:14:44 PM   
David Winter

 

Posts: 5158
Joined: 11/24/2004
From: Vancouver, BC
Status: offline 		I assume that question is for me in regards to my brass photo etching? Brass is used because it can be etched with inexpensive, and less caustic acid solutions than tin. It boils down to the point that Tin simply doesn't photo etch very well.

Oh yes, brass also solders better too. I generally use CA glue for most of my fine-detail metal working needs, but occasionally when strength is really needed (like building propellers), soldering brass is required.

< Message edited by David Winter -- 1/8/2008 11:19:13 PM >

(in reply to Zap)
Post #: 32
RE: OT... Plastic Models - 1/8/2008 11:24:46 PM   
Zap


Posts: 3639
Joined: 12/6/2004
From: LAS VEGAS TAKE A CHANCE
Status: offline 		Ok I just learned something. Does'nt tin rust as well, so brass would last longer.

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Post #: 33
RE: OT... Plastic Models - 1/8/2008 11:27:42 PM   
David Winter

 

Posts: 5158
Joined: 11/24/2004
From: Vancouver, BC
Status: offline 		Well they both corrode, but tin much faster. And you never, ever mix the two together or they'll just eat each other appart. Literally. I don't know of any modeller, especially one building RC models that go in water, using tin for a construction medium.

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Post #: 34
RE: OT... Plastic Models - 1/9/2008 5:52:00 AM   
Jeffrey H.


Posts: 3154
Joined: 4/13/2007
From: San Diego, Ca.
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: HansBolter

What brands make the best kits these days is highly dependent on what you are into building.

Two years ago I dediced to get back into model building after a hiatus that lasted since the 70s when I was a teenager.

If you are into tanks and vehicles, Dragon, AFV Club and Tristar are the leading brands for quality and accuracy of detail.

However, be forwarned that these are not your father's plastic model kits. Many contain frets of the latest rage known as "photo etch" or PE. It is a flat sheet of brass with super fine detail parts etched into the metal. The assembly, forming and bending of the metal and gluing/soldering require development of new skills and some of the parts are sooooo tiny they will drive you to frustration.

There is a Japanese guy who posts on Planet Armor who scratch builds out of brass and solder. His work will absolutely blow you away. He makes Swiss watch makers look like amatuers. Here is a link to his thread about scratchbuilding a halftrack chassis and engine:

http://www.planetarmor.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2875



That guy is something else !

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Post #: 35
RE: OT... Plastic Models - 1/9/2008 6:11:48 AM   
105mm Howitzer


Posts: 447
Joined: 8/9/2007
From: Montreal, Quebec
Status: offline 		Still remember shopping at Eaton's for C-Mas and getting that enourmous Lancaster Bomber kit, (forgot the maker) Talk about wingspan...I eventually hung it under my ceiling light, just floating in midair. I fell asleep many a nights staring at it. Than one day, it crashed and broke up. That's when my teenage life ended for me.
I haven't modeled a kit since then, but I do have several 1/35 Tamiya WWII German tanks and a couple of M-113 scenicked for Vietnam War era. Maybe one day I'll get the urge.

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Post #: 36
RE: OT... Plastic Models - 1/10/2008 3:01:09 PM   
HansBolter


Posts: 7704
Joined: 7/6/2006
From: United States
Status: offline 		Here is a good example of what a plastic tank kit looks like with a turned aluminum barrel a and a PE detail kit (prior to painting):






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Post #: 37
RE: OT... Plastic Models - 1/11/2008 12:14:38 PM   
Nemesis

 

Posts: 126
Joined: 1/11/2001
From: Järvenpää, Finland
Status: offline 		I have been thinking about re-starting my plastic model-hobby. I used to dabble with them as a kid, but that was something like 20 years ago. But I still remember the great time I had putting together a replica of the Gneisenau... I was never in to painting though.

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Post #: 38
RE: OT... Plastic Models - 1/11/2008 2:37:52 PM   
JudgeDredd


Posts: 8573
Joined: 11/14/2003
From: Scotland
Status: offline 		My dad used to get my brother and I model aircraft and plastic soldiers when we were younger when money permitted.

I have fond memories of my dad coming home from work with his hands behind his back and asking "Who wants which hand?". We were stoked....we had Japanese infantry, US, British and both our favs...German.

We would sit together with our dad helping out with the painting and do the models together.

I always yearned for the big buggers though!!


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Post #: 39
RE: OT... Plastic Models - 1/11/2008 2:40:18 PM   
JudgeDredd


Posts: 8573
Joined: 11/14/2003
From: Scotland
Status: offline 		In fact this is one of the less known ones (for me at the time) I remember doing with him

I also remember him using matches to give my newly painted and made B17 a "crach" look and the bugger set fire to it!




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Post #: 40
RE: OT... Plastic Models - 1/11/2008 5:19:11 PM   
MrBoats

 

Posts: 135
Joined: 7/1/2004
Status: offline 		For HansBolter,

Do the PE brass sheets of that size need any special treatment before painting? I've only used the little pieces for hinges, brackets, etc. and never the larger sized sheets. I just wondered if they appeared different than painted plastic sheeting after paint is applied. I did build the Tamiya 1/350 Fletcher Class Destroyer some years ago and used an excellent PE set on it. A lot of painstaking work but the result was worth it.

Verlinden Co. has a lot of detail kits available for various kits and for dioramas. I used their Sherman interior resin kit a few years back.

I'd give anything for the old Tamiya 1/25 Tiger with the interior. The 1/16 Tiger with the r/c additions would be fun, too.

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Post #: 41
RE: OT... Plastic Models - 1/13/2008 6:59:30 AM   
Zap


Posts: 3639
Joined: 12/6/2004
From: LAS VEGAS TAKE A CHANCE
Status: offline 		Here's some of my work from scratch. Its not war models and its done in wood. Its 2 and a half feet long by 1 and a half high. It has lighting, the bells work. The inside has inlayed floor. I used seven types of wood. Mahogony, Rosewood, yellow pine,cherry,brazilian balboa, walnut.
I hope you forgive me introducing this off-topic model but I hardly get a chance for those who appreciate scratch work to see my project.

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< Message edited by Zap -- 1/13/2008 10:51:23 PM >

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Post #: 42
RE: OT... Plastic Models - 1/13/2008 7:05:44 AM   
Zap


Posts: 3639
Joined: 12/6/2004
From: LAS VEGAS TAKE A CHANCE
Status: offline 		This one I'm still working on. It will have lighting. Yes those are chrimas lights. This one will also be 2 and a half feet long by about two feet in hight.

Attachment (3)

< Message edited by Zap -- 1/13/2008 7:09:46 AM >

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Post #: 43
RE: OT... Plastic Models - 1/13/2008 12:50:09 PM   
JudgeDredd


Posts: 8573
Joined: 11/14/2003
From: Scotland
Status: offline 		That's impressive handy work, Zap.

I don't have the patience to do something like that...I envy you.

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Post #: 44
RE: OT... Plastic Models - 1/13/2008 8:45:03 PM   
andym


Posts: 1117
Joined: 7/12/2006
From: Kings Lynn UK
Status: offline 		not strictly plastic but i like the White ensign resin and etched brass kits.


http://www.whiteensignmodels.com/

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Post #: 45
RE: OT... Plastic Models - 1/15/2008 11:10:21 PM   
HansBolter


Posts: 7704
Joined: 7/6/2006
From: United States
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: MrBoats

For HansBolter,

Do the PE brass sheets of that size need any special treatment before painting? I've only used the little pieces for hinges, brackets, etc. and never the larger sized sheets. I just wondered if they appeared different than painted plastic sheeting after paint is applied. I did build the Tamiya 1/350 Fletcher Class Destroyer some years ago and used an excellent PE set on it. A lot of painstaking work but the result was worth it.

Verlinden Co. has a lot of detail kits available for various kits and for dioramas. I used their Sherman interior resin kit a few years back.

I'd give anything for the old Tamiya 1/25 Tiger with the interior. The 1/16 Tiger with the r/c additions would be fun, too.


Sorry for the delay in getting back to you.

Any good primer will level the playing field for paint application with the different combinations of materials in model kits these days. In addition to the PE, many after market detail parts are available in resin, so kits end up with a combination of styrene plastic, resin, brass and aluminum.

(in reply to MrBoats)
Post #: 46
RE: OT... Plastic Models - 1/15/2008 11:14:22 PM   
HansBolter


Posts: 7704
Joined: 7/6/2006
From: United States
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: JudgeDredd


I always yearned for the big buggers though!!



Last year a 1/35 Dora (largest gun ever built.....80cm) hit the market with a list prioce of $699. A turned aliminum barrel is available for a measely additional $400. Several build log threads started on several modeling sites and one eventually turned up a link to a site of a guy who was scratchbuilding a 1/6th Dora. I'll see if I can dig up that link again.

While I'm looking for a link to the 1/6th Dora build thread enjoy this link to a build log for a 1/35th diorama that inlcudes Dora, Karl and the BR52 Kriegslocamotive: http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=SquawkBox&file=index&req=viewtopic&topic_id=103580&page=1

Finally found the right link: 1/6th Dora in all her glory!: http://www.vonabt.co.uk/models/Dora/index.html


< Message edited by HansBolter -- 1/15/2008 11:26:56 PM >

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Post #: 47
RE: OT... Plastic Models - 1/17/2008 6:50:33 PM   
Zap


Posts: 3639
Joined: 12/6/2004
From: LAS VEGAS TAKE A CHANCE
Status: offline 		Thanks for that sight. What a beatuful piece of work. I was amazed!

< Message edited by Zap -- 1/17/2008 7:05:56 PM >

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Post #: 48
RE: OT... Plastic Models - 1/17/2008 7:04:27 PM   
MrBoats

 

Posts: 135
Joined: 7/1/2004
Status: offline 		To HB,

Thanks. And that 1/35 Dora has my mouth watering...and it is tax refund time......but my cats would make short work of it and I can buy a few more games for the asking price. Still.... I think I'd still have to pick the 1/200th Yamato. I'm fascinated by that one. Or a wooden Victory, although it's way out of my league.

< Message edited by MrBoats -- 1/17/2008 7:05:11 PM >

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Post #: 49
RE: OT... Plastic Models - 1/18/2008 9:39:15 PM   
mdiehl

 

Posts: 5998
Joined: 10/21/2000
Status: offline
quote:

I was wondering if any of you folks are still into this hobby and if so, what are considered the best plastic models these days ?


It really depends on the subject. Manufacturers often introduce new subjects or retool old molds, and as these newer molds are introduced the kits improve. Most a.c. subjects for example now come with recessed lines for the body & wing panels, rather than the old-style raised lines. Most of them have alot more overall detail than they did when we were kids.

For a.c. Tamiya consistently makes good kits. Also the "Revell Pro Modeler" series (it has, for ex, the very best 1:48 scale PBY you can get). They're good kits, and the added advantage is that there are a large number of aftermarket "detail sets" (improved tires, metal detail kits for trim tabs, belts n buckles, interior cockpit levers, &c).

If you want near-perfection, however, "out of the box" (no compelling need to buy aftermarket parts) for a higher price, anything made by Accurate Minatures will really float any 1:48 a.c. enthusiast's boat.

< Message edited by mdiehl -- 1/18/2008 9:40:16 PM >

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