going to start a thread where I (and hopefully others) can show the ship kits they build and paint. Right now I am building a 1/700 IJN Nenohi 1933 outfit.
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Joined: 6/28/2006 From: Near Portland, OR Status: offline
It's been quite some time since I actually built any 1/700 scale ship kits, but I do have quite a few of them as well as several 1/350 scale kits I've got in my stash.
Maybe a thread about them will stir into some kind of action.
On the subject of plastic models. I have several Japanese 1/700 CVs. For those in the group that have done this in the past, how do you represent the wooden decks? I have found just painting them a single color with a darker wash brings out the individual wood details, but it is still just one color. I know those decks had a variable wood color and had marks from engines warming up, tire marks, etc. I have thought about some colored pencils, but that is going to take a bit, so if anyone has invented the wheel already, I am ready to listen!
I just ordered a 1/350 Benson DD, plus photoetch yesterday. I'll have to research how to load it out in what timeframe. I see Dragon also makes a 1940 and 1942 version of it, which would be interesting together.
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Joined: 9/8/2005 From: La Salle, Colorado Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: nashvillen
On the subject of plastic models. I have several Japanese 1/700 CVs. For those in the group that have done this in the past, how do you represent the wooden decks? I have found just painting them a single color with a darker wash brings out the individual wood details, but it is still just one color. I know those decks had a variable wood color and had marks from engines warming up, tire marks, etc. I have thought about some colored pencils, but that is going to take a bit, so if anyone has invented the wheel already, I am ready to listen!
I'd love someone to BUILD a Japanese CV for me and do their work so I then can play around with a NICE model and its aircraft on deck. Have currently got a 1/700 CV Shokaku and about 48 aircraft waiting for this moment...
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Member: Treaty, Reluctant Admiral and Between the Storms Mod Team.
I'd love someone to BUILD a Japanese CV for me and do their work so I then can play around with a NICE model and its aircraft on deck. Have currently got a 1/700 CV Shokaku and about 48 aircraft waiting for this moment...
I'm currently building a 1:350 scale BB North Carolina for a forum member I'm currently playing in another PBEM. I'm notoriously slow though, and it's going to be some time until he finally gets it.
I have so many kits unstarted that I think I'd get more pleasure from building the kits for someone else to enjoy rather than just have them end up sitting on my shelf. I may surprise you one of these days, but glaciers move faster in the time it takes me to build them.
_____________________________
Luck is the residue of design - John Milton
Don't mistake lack of talent for genius - Peter Steele (Type O Negative)
On the subject of plastic models. I have several Japanese 1/700 CVs. For those in the group that have done this in the past, how do you represent the wooden decks? I have found just painting them a single color with a darker wash brings out the individual wood details, but it is still just one color. I know those decks had a variable wood color and had marks from engines warming up, tire marks, etc. I have thought about some colored pencils, but that is going to take a bit, so if anyone has invented the wheel already, I am ready to listen!
I'd love someone to BUILD a Japanese CV for me and do their work so I then can play around with a NICE model and its aircraft on deck. Have currently got a 1/700 CV Shokaku and about 48 aircraft waiting for this moment...
Don't look my direction, I am by no means that good. I am still learning. Getting past the mental block of not seeing an appropriate flight deck is keeping me from doing more. I, to, have lots of extra aircraft to load them up with full strikes.
Posts: 17178
Joined: 9/8/2005 From: La Salle, Colorado Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: nashvillen
On the subject of plastic models. I have several Japanese 1/700 CVs. For those in the group that have done this in the past, how do you represent the wooden decks? I have found just painting them a single color with a darker wash brings out the individual wood details, but it is still just one color. I know those decks had a variable wood color and had marks from engines warming up, tire marks, etc. I have thought about some colored pencils, but that is going to take a bit, so if anyone has invented the wheel already, I am ready to listen!
Hey! I was just looking on Amazon and you can BUY the CV wood decks as a separate piece. Type in the CV Name (I did this for Akagi and Shokaku) and the option pops up on the page. The decks LOOK great! Take a look.
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Member: Treaty, Reluctant Admiral and Between the Storms Mod Team.
I grabbed 3 1/700 Fubuki(I) kits on special for about $3US each and now I am scratching my head as to what exactly to do with them. The default layout is just after the refit to remove the 12.7cm guns for 25mm AA platforms but there are a heap of spare parts so I figure I can do an early/mid/late series with them. Does anyone have a link with a latewar Fubuki(I) layout? I can't seem to turn up much.
On the subject of plastic models. I have several Japanese 1/700 CVs. For those in the group that have done this in the past, how do you represent the wooden decks? I have found just painting them a single color with a darker wash brings out the individual wood details, but it is still just one color. I know those decks had a variable wood color and had marks from engines warming up, tire marks, etc. I have thought about some colored pencils, but that is going to take a bit, so if anyone has invented the wheel already, I am ready to listen!
I have been getting back into building 1/700 scale. While looking for photo etch, (which I've never done and scares me paralyzed just thinking of all of the tiny things I can break in two) and I noticed somewhere a stencil for the paint job of an IJN flight deck. All of the cool white arrows and other stuff. I think you'd have to do the weathering on your own. Tamiya makes some kits for weathering, but I think thin glazes of various darks should do it. There are some great paints like 'gun metal' that really get that slightly oily dark look.
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"Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm." - Winston Churchill
I grabbed 3 1/700 Fubuki(I) kits on special for about $3US each and now I am scratching my head as to what exactly to do with them. The default layout is just after the refit to remove the 12.7cm guns for 25mm AA platforms but there are a heap of spare parts so I figure I can do an early/mid/late series with them. Does anyone have a link with a latewar Fubuki(I) layout? I can't seem to turn up much.
Great find. Here is an example from a modeling site of a Fubuki in 44.
I think there is a WW I version of the Warspite from Trumpeter too.
A person can spend a fortune on aftermarket stuff. Much of it is gilding the lily IMO. I did end up with a wooden deck as an extra in a 1/350 Lexington I got on Ebay. It's nice, but I don't think I would buy it separately. I ended up with two 1/350 Lexingtons, the second one was gifted. I was thinking of converting it to a late war Saratoga, but finding information on the AA suite layout on the Saratoga after 1942 is not easy.
The decks of those carriers would have a few oil drips and such, but they would be too small to see in 1/700 scale. I think the wood decks of carriers got changed out fairly frequently. They got a heck of a lot more wear and tear than any other type of surface ship.
On the modeler's forums they talk about the carpet monster that regularly eats small parts like those microscopic bits of photo-etch.
If anyone likes to bargain shop and is in the US, I recommend signing up for the newsletter from Dragon's website:
They import Aoshima and Fujimi as well as carry their own line of ship kits. They have sales going on all the time and some kits are 50% off retail. A few months back they had a 1/350 Independence at over 50% off. I grabbed it. I've also picked up a few 1/700 IJN BB kits at bargain prices too.
I can manage to lose photo-etch on a bare wood floor. That kinda halted my 1/700 1942 San Francisco for the time being. I need a break from "Braille Scale" for awhile...
Loose Cannon makes a 1/700 Long Island that I want to try sometime. Lots of photo-etch for the girder work under the deck.
Ed-
< Message edited by Mundy -- 2/12/2013 1:51:05 PM >
Posts: 10398
Joined: 6/28/2006 From: Near Portland, OR Status: offline
I don't know what you did to get that color, but at least to me it looks like the brown for the deck is too thin and the gray plastic is showing through.
One thing aircraft modelers do is color the recessed panel lines with a dark color, sometimes black, before painting the camo colors. After painting the dark shows through the paint a bit and highlights the panel lines. IMO some people over do it, but very visible panel lines are the fashion these days.
I would think a similar technique would work on a ship's deck. I would try it with a dark brown pen, then paint over it with a lighter brown. The darker lines will show through the top coat a bit and you should get some contrast on your deck. I'm not 100% sure it will work, but it might be worth a try.
ORIGINAL: wdolson I would think a similar technique would work on a ship's deck. I would try it with a dark brown pen, then paint over it with a lighter brown. The darker lines will show through the top coat a bit and you should get some contrast on your deck. I'm not 100% sure it will work, but it might be worth a try.
Bill
I'm not sure on Japanese destroyers, but battleships and cruisers used brass strips to secure the linoleum decks. The raised lines running across your deck represent those strips I believe. Something you might want to try. Also, Tamiya has a paint available specifically for Japanese linoleum decks. Just some more info for you U2.
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Luck is the residue of design - John Milton
Don't mistake lack of talent for genius - Peter Steele (Type O Negative)
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