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I would just get some thin steel sheets, attach using nails/screws, and use magnets to keep the maps up. That way if someone asks "When is that eyesore going to come down?" You can say "Right away maam!"
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quote:
ORIGINAL: Numdydar
I would just get some thin steel sheets, attach using nails/screws, and use magnets to keep the maps up. That way if someone asks "When is that eyesore going to come down?" You can say "Right away maam!"
In that way you can also put magnets under your counters and actually use them.
I have the same situation, but if I am going to do this I will hire a professional to this well. The maps are just too beautifull to let an amature ruin them.
Think my other half would rather see the maps than steel sheets on the walls :) how many tabletennis tables do they cover? I have them and a room that can take two and a half TT tables fitted together is that big enough ? from looking at them as they arrived today I suspect not :)
TT are 9X5 feet. Assuming put togeather lengthwise you will have about 9X12 area to fit the maps on So you would need about 5 TT in order to use the maps . Obviously the optimum option is to just move to a bigger house
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quote:
ORIGINAL: Numdydar
TT are 9X5 feet. Assuming put togeather lengthwise you will have about 9X12 area to fit the maps on So you would need about 5 TT in order to use the maps . Obviously the optimum option is to just move to a bigger house
I am pretty sure you will only need 8 feet of vertical wall if you are willing to lose a few meaningless hexrows at the tip of South America. You should be able to keep the southernmost port in the game.
OMG! That had me laugh so much I almost p**d my pants?????
My better half would never ever let me put that kind of map in my Office aka man cave, absolutely not! Just so I could put a new bookcase with all my RPG figurines (134 of them) of elves, dragons, warriors, mages, catapults, ogres etc......I had to buy her a new 2013 Mercedes C 300 class with all those options and had to have it custom made in Deutschland and shipped to Canada...............This time she would want either a $million diamond or a brand New 2014 Bentley Flying Spur just to get permission to put those maps up.........actually I would love to have that Bentley...............but that is another story???
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Are there going to be map variations offered in the future such as start lines for various scenarios, historical references, etc for the Wall Map? Will this edition Map Pack be a one & only issue? (This map is so superb that Im collecting it even if its never used.)
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quote:
ORIGINAL: AbwehrX
Are there going to be map variations offered in the future such as start lines for various scenarios, historical references, etc for the Wall Map? Will this edition Map Pack be a one & only issue? (This map is so superb that Im collecting it even if its never used.)
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Still thinking about which part of the map I'm going to sacrifice. I'm considering to use the F1 maps as starting point (Eastern Canada, US). I wil run out of wall when I reach the E1 maps but that way I 'only' mis the Western US and have most of the Pacific Theatre intact.
The maps wil only be used for planning world domination in WiF and real world scenarios the West Coast can safely sleep as I will be unaware of its existence.
< Message edited by boshar -- 11/19/2013 11:16:55 PM >
I now have the map pack and they are currently flattening - all those folds.
I have a wall (not big enough - but who needs the pacific anyway ?)
My question is has anybody tried to put them on a wall yet ? - it's very glossy paper, what glue/paste did you use ? - did it work out well ?
How did you convince 'the better half' it would be a good idea ?
Any problems to look out for ?
Thanks
Call me crazy, but I am going to mount it on a table top, covered with a thin thin layer of glass.. that way we can always play it when I buy the counters, and it will double as a game room table.. this is down the road of course..
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I thought of this too but my regular size WiF game is on a 4' X 8' table and it is a bit awkward to reach the middle of the map without upsetting unit stacks near the edges with your shirt sleeves or other parts of your clothing. It would be extremely difficult reaching more than double this distance.
< Message edited by paulderynck -- 11/20/2013 5:36:55 PM >
I thought of this too but my regular size WiF game is on a 4' X 8' table and it is a bit awkward to reach the middle of the map without upsetting unit stacks near the edges with your shirt sleeves or other parts of your clothing. It would be extremely difficult reaching more than double this distance.
Agreed.
I have seen the magnetized version on the wall...looks like it could work
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quote:
ORIGINAL: jeffk3510
quote:
ORIGINAL: paulderynck
I thought of this too but my regular size WiF game is on a 4' X 8' table and it is a bit awkward to reach the middle of the map without upsetting unit stacks near the edges with your shirt sleeves or other parts of your clothing. It would be extremely difficult reaching more than double this distance.
Agreed.
I have seen the magnetized version on the wall...looks like it could work
Rather than one large table, splitting the map so segments are on different tables, with an aisle in between, might be a solution.
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quote:
ORIGINAL: boshar
Still thinking about which part of the map I'm going to sacrifice. I'm considering to use the F1 maps as starting point (Eastern Canada, US). I wil run out of wall when I reach the E1 maps but that way I 'only' mis the Western US and have most of the Pacific Theatre intact.
The maps wil only be used for planning world domination in WiF and real world scenarios the West Coast can safely sleep as I will be unaware of its existence.
When you are finished, Centuur and I probably would like to admire your work. You're probably only one hex away?
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quote:
ORIGINAL: jeffk3510
quote:
ORIGINAL: Subeto
Hi,
I now have the map pack and they are currently flattening - all those folds.
I have a wall (not big enough - but who needs the pacific anyway ?)
My question is has anybody tried to put them on a wall yet ? - it's very glossy paper, what glue/paste did you use ? - did it work out well ?
How did you convince 'the better half' it would be a good idea ?
Any problems to look out for ?
Thanks
Call me crazy, but I am going to mount it on a table top, covered with a thin thin layer of glass.. that way we can always play it when I buy the counters, and it will double as a game room table.. this is down the road of course..
I did this with plexiglass. I then used some wood for risers, and bought plastic covers for office style lights and laid them over the wood risers. I used them when I wasn't playing as a shield for the counters and to mitigate four legged interventions.
Still thinking about which part of the map I'm going to sacrifice. I'm considering to use the F1 maps as starting point (Eastern Canada, US). I wil run out of wall when I reach the E1 maps but that way I 'only' mis the Western US and have most of the Pacific Theatre intact.
The maps wil only be used for planning world domination in WiF and real world scenarios the West Coast can safely sleep as I will be unaware of its existence.
When you are finished, Centuur and I probably would like to admire your work. You're probably only one hex away?
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Mount the map on a rotating metal cylinder with a circumference exactly equal to the width of the map (21'?). Also, have a recess in the floor that the cylinder can lower into. It should be easy to adjust the "world" so that any region you need to work with can be adjusted to your chest height. Or lower than that if you want to sit in a chair and play. Yes, you need a professional to do it! Professional what, I'm not sure. Engineer?
Oh, and of course you'll still need magnets for all the counters.
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I have played World in Flames on a wall. (we just used the maps from the box, unmodified counters, and a whole lot of poster putty, worked OK, but this was in 5th edition with a lower counter density than Super Deluxe, and a lot of the world still at "Asian" scale rather than the all-European scale on the MWiF maps.
one thing you need is to have the main areas of land conflict (northern Europe, China) at eye level or just below. the result of this is that a full map of Africa won't fit on the wall, directly below Europe. there are a few other such implications around the world.
so to realistically do it, you have to figure out what to do with all the mapped areas that are unlikely to see any counters at all, and when they are, will only be units in transit, well behind any combat front line.
which will lead you to using some sort of "off-map" boxes or pools or something, as on the edges of the World in Flames paper maps. It wouldn't be all that hard to home-brew up a solution for these realities.
I would get some experience playing the game well before one mounts the map of South America on a wall.
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quote:
ORIGINAL: GFelz
I like the cylinder idea but mounted on a fixed base with a rotating track.
To go with that you could have different "viewing levels". A floor height section, a 1' platform, and a 2" platform?
If the map doesn't rotate, or if you are using a wall, there should be a raised area of maybe 18" for Europe, to bring the action to eye level.
The diameter of the cylinder would be according to the formula C = 2 * pi * R. D = 2 * R. C = 21'. Therefore D = 6.68'. That's not all that big. But it would dominate a room. I wonder how well the magnets would stick to the map given the curved surface. Some testing on that would need to be done.
Here is a design pass I made at this using eight tables of 3' by 5'. You would need to fold some of the map segments under.
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And one last template for you to work from. These are the 24 map segments in overview.
EDIT: This analysis was done when we were deciding how to segment the printed map. We reduced the 30" down to 27" so the horizontal lines might be slightly off. The trimming didn't affect the map, just the margins at the top and bottom of each segment.
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I want to add one credit that might not have been mentioned anywhere. CAD908 took all the screenshots for the printed map. He had to piece them together for each segment, and then make sure the segments overlapped correctly. That was done at the pixel level!
Here's some of his analysis when we were working on this.