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RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships

 
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RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships - 5/21/2015 11:24:24 AM   
Mundy


Posts: 2869
Joined: 6/26/2002
From: Neenah
Status: offline 		It's hard to keep the work up when all these damn turns keep coming in. 

I did light those two on fire good.

I do have a nice Chikuma kit, which I've barely started.

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Post #: 121
RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships - 5/21/2015 11:42:52 AM   
HansBolter


Posts: 7704
Joined: 7/6/2006
From: United States
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: Mundy

It's hard to keep the work up when all these damn turns keep coming in. 

I did light those two on fire good.

I do have a nice Chikuma kit, which I've barely started.


Since I play the AI when I end my orders phase the computer has to churn for what seems like ten minutes implementing the AI orders.

I spend that time at the model desk waiting for the turn resolution to start.

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Post #: 122
RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships - 5/21/2015 11:53:12 AM   
LargeSlowTarget


Posts: 4443
Joined: 9/23/2000
From: Hessen, Germany - now living in France
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: Cannonfodder

Mundy, so its here that you try to rebuild your fleet? Can you build me a new Fuso?


(am following your AAR)

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Post #: 123
RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships - 5/21/2015 11:56:53 AM   
Trugrit


Posts: 947
Joined: 7/14/2014
From: North Carolina
Status: offline
I envy you...great desk....

I would give modeling a try but.......

I have two cats. I think they would be harder on Japanese carriers than the U.S. Navy.

K


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Post #: 124
RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships - 5/21/2015 12:29:43 PM   
HansBolter


Posts: 7704
Joined: 7/6/2006
From: United States
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: Trugrit


I envy you...great desk....

I would give modeling a try but.......

I have two cats. I think they would be harder on Japanese carriers than the U.S. Navy.

K





My 5 cats know the model desk is off limits so casualties are light.

The clutter is the key. If you leave them no space large enough to be inviting to lay down so they can push everything else off the table top they will avoid it altogether.


< Message edited by HansBolter -- 5/21/2015 1:32:26 PM >

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Post #: 125
RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships - 5/21/2015 12:30:50 PM   
HansBolter


Posts: 7704
Joined: 7/6/2006
From: United States
Status: offline 		double post


< Message edited by HansBolter -- 5/21/2015 1:31:35 PM >

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Post #: 126
RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships - 5/21/2015 1:15:20 PM   
nashvillen


Posts: 3836
Joined: 7/3/2006
From: Christiana, TN
Status: offline 		Well, I thought I had my 3/4 of the way done CVL-21 in a cat safe spot, but somehow they pulled it off and all my etched brass has to be straightened before I get to finish it... sigh...

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Post #: 127
RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships - 5/21/2015 1:42:48 PM   
Mundy


Posts: 2869
Joined: 6/26/2002
From: Neenah
Status: offline 		One of my little girl cats likes to "hit" stray pieces of paper if they are carelessly left around.

This happened to my CVL-22 instructions.

Fortunately, Dragon's customer service is very responsive and send me a pdf within a few hours.

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Post #: 128
RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships - 5/22/2015 3:46:14 AM   
TOMLABEL


Posts: 5116
Joined: 1/27/2006
From: Alabama - ROLL TIDE!!!!!
Status: offline 		Very nice builds everyone!!!

I'm currently working on the 1/350 Merit CV5 Yorktown and have their CV6 Enterprise (Santa Cruz time frame)on pre-order. And, yes, I am in process of sanding down hull but this is the best plastic kit of the Yorktown class carrier to date!! Hull looks even better than the 1/480 Revell kit.

As far as cats - I've got two. Ever since the older one tried to eat a 1/35 .50 cal machine gun from a Dragon M4A3 kit and almost choked to death, they are intent on watching EVERY move I make when building a kit.

I gave up on trying to keep them off the work bench as they always find a perch to watch what I'm doing until I pull out the IWATA!!!!!!

TOMLABEL

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Post #: 129
RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships - 5/22/2015 11:28:56 AM   
Mundy


Posts: 2869
Joined: 6/26/2002
From: Neenah
Status: offline 		I've been enjoying your talk on the Yorktown thread.  Mine is on the short list to build.

I've got aftermarket aircraft decals, brass 5" barrels, White Ensign .50s and the very nice Master Model 20mm guns to enhance it a bit.  I know York carried a mix of .50s and 20s, and I haven't looked too deeply into the kit to see if they differentiate them at all.  I'll probably leave the hull as is, but give it a heavier coat of primer.

If you guys want to see a work of art, check out Marijn's Lexington.

http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery/cv/cv-02/Lexington-700-mvg/index.htm

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Post #: 130
RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships - 5/22/2015 12:54:01 PM   
HansBolter


Posts: 7704
Joined: 7/6/2006
From: United States
Status: offline 		I have 1/700 Yorktown and Ticonderoga kits in my stash. Can't remember the brand but they are far better detailed 1/700 kits than the typical Tamiya.

Most 1/700 Tamiya carrier kits (I have Hornet and Shinano) have one piece molded aircraft.

The Yorktown and Ticonderoga kits have multi-part clear plastic aircraft that appear a bit daunting for my old and tired eyes to handle assembling.

The DD Fletcher, DE England and I-400 in the photo of my model desk are my only 1/350 kits.

Most of my ship kits are 1/700.

I also have a huge stash of 1/35 and 1/72 Tank and vehicle models including this limited edition Cyber Hobby Michael Wittman Special that was selling for $300 on Ebay shortly after I picked it up in a hobby shop for $100:

http://dragonusaonline.com/item_detail.aspx?ItemCode=CHC6350

As can be gleaned from my avatar I'm a huge tank fan. Hans Bolter was one of Germany's leading Tiger Tank Aces.

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Post #: 131
RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships - 5/22/2015 10:36:44 PM   
wdolson

 

Posts: 10398
Joined: 6/28/2006
From: Near Portland, OR
Status: offline 		Dragon's 1/700 Essex class kits have a hanger deck and an optional clear deck. Trumpeter also makes an Essex class kit, but it's not quite as detailed.

The Japanese waterline kits have historically been fairly basic, but they have been retooling the old kits and they are far better detailed than the original kits. You have to do some research to find out which is which. The new Soryu and Unryu have hanger decks. The new Akagi comes in the standard war configuration along with the triple decker version as built. Almost every Waterline kit released today comes with an accessory package with small guns, boats, fittings, etc. It definitely dresses up the older kits.

Tamiya, Hasegawa, Aoshima, and Fujimi teamed up to produce waterline kits of all the Japanese warships larger than destroyers along with some examples of smaller ships. In the 1990s Fujimi dropped out of the consortium, but the other three are still in it. Fujimi sells some of their kits that had originally been sold under the waterline logo along with some newer mold ships. The other three have been replacing kits that had been Fujimi molds, like Tamiya did a Shokaku and Zuikaku in the 90s, Hasegawa did the Kongos around 2000, and Aoshima did an Oyodo a couple of years ago.

Bill

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RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships - 5/23/2015 3:24:49 AM   
TOMLABEL


Posts: 5116
Joined: 1/27/2006
From: Alabama - ROLL TIDE!!!!!
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: Mundy

I've been enjoying your talk on the Yorktown thread. 

I've got more to come!!!!

quote:

ORIGINAL: Mundy
I've got aftermarket aircraft decals, brass 5" barrels, White Ensign .50s and the very nice Master Model 20mm guns to enhance it a bit. 

It will be my first time with the Master Model 20mm/s - they look impossible to build!!!! But they look awesome!!!

quote:

ORIGINAL: Mundy
If you guys want to see a work of art, check out Marijn's Lexington.

http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery/cv/cv-02/Lexington-700-mvg/index.htm


Yes, that is a fantastic build. Still can't believe that is 1/700 especialy the figures!!!

TOMLABEL

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Post #: 133
RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships - 5/27/2015 2:21:09 AM   
TOMLABEL


Posts: 5116
Joined: 1/27/2006
From: Alabama - ROLL TIDE!!!!!
Status: offline 		Here is where I've gotten on sanding off the plates of the Yorktown hull. It didn't take to long to get it to this point if I had worked on it continuously, but you know life gets in the way and then its many weeks later.

I've hit it with primer to help me see where additional work will be needed sanding-wise. Started out with 80 grit (which is probably too much) and ended with 400 grit before I hit it with the primer.

I couldn't find my Revel hull this evening to show a compare, but this hull is fantastic!!!!

TOMLABEL






Attachment (1)

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Post #: 134
RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships - 5/27/2015 2:39:14 AM   
SierraJuliet


Posts: 2319
Joined: 2/23/2009
From: Brisbane, Australia
Status: offline 		That looks like a good smooth finish. Are you leaving the hull as sanded or do you plan on putting new work on it?

(in reply to TOMLABEL)
Post #: 135
RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships - 5/27/2015 3:11:25 AM   
TOMLABEL


Posts: 5116
Joined: 1/27/2006
From: Alabama - ROLL TIDE!!!!!
Status: offline 		Yes, there is still more sanding work to do. Not much, but the primer will show me the areas that need attention.

I then plan on adding the armored belts on either side of the hull using several layers of a DuPont deep filler primer and add some other small hull details as well.

I then will start preliminary builds but will wait on the Ponto's detail set to be release before proceeding any further on the build.

TOMLABEL




Attachment (1)

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Post #: 136
RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships - 5/27/2015 4:00:56 AM   
SierraJuliet


Posts: 2319
Joined: 2/23/2009
From: Brisbane, Australia
Status: offline 		I would like to see you go about that. I'm forever impressed at the ability to create additions to a model. More so to see it was achieved.

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Post #: 137
RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships - 5/27/2015 11:00:05 AM   
HansBolter


Posts: 7704
Joined: 7/6/2006
From: United States
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: wdolson

Dragon's 1/700 Essex class kits have a hanger deck and an optional clear deck. Trumpeter also makes an Essex class kit, but it's not quite as detailed.

The Japanese waterline kits have historically been fairly basic, but they have been retooling the old kits and they are far better detailed than the original kits. You have to do some research to find out which is which. The new Soryu and Unryu have hanger decks. The new Akagi comes in the standard war configuration along with the triple decker version as built. Almost every Waterline kit released today comes with an accessory package with small guns, boats, fittings, etc. It definitely dresses up the older kits.

Tamiya, Hasegawa, Aoshima, and Fujimi teamed up to produce waterline kits of all the Japanese warships larger than destroyers along with some examples of smaller ships. In the 1990s Fujimi dropped out of the consortium, but the other three are still in it. Fujimi sells some of their kits that had originally been sold under the waterline logo along with some newer mold ships. The other three have been replacing kits that had been Fujimi molds, like Tamiya did a Shokaku and Zuikaku in the 90s, Hasegawa did the Kongos around 2000, and Aoshima did an Oyodo a couple of years ago.

Bill



I checked my 1/700 carrier kits. They are Trumpeter. My 1/350 DE England was also a trumpeter kit.
Their kits are better detailed than the Tamiya ones. I have built a few Aoshima and Fujimi 1/700 kits as well.

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Post #: 138
RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships - 5/27/2015 6:02:46 PM   
Mundy


Posts: 2869
Joined: 6/26/2002
From: Neenah
Status: offline 		I liked the England kit. (page 3).  It's simple enough where you can upgrade it to your comfort level.  I replaced the 3"/50s with Niko ones, used the photo-etch set and used 20mm brass barrels. (actually easy to do).  My Benson supplied the replacement for the relatively crude 1.1" gun mount.

I haven't had a Tamiya kit yet.  I would rate the earlier Trumpeter stuff down on the detail side.  Their new stuff is improving, apart from the occasional gaffe. (bows on the Yorktowns and stern on Indianapolis).

Starting my next carrier is tempting but Independence's air group is wearing me down.  I'm building them in groups of four.

I haven't done a lot in 1/700 yet.  I'll mostly waterline those kits on a water base.  I've a start on an Arizona, and want to add Vestal and a quay to the display.

TOMLABEL, that's a powerful sanding job.  I'm not sure I can be that ambitious with mine.  Maybe I can tone it down a bit without purging it completely.  I'm torn between a Coral Sea and a Midway version.  I'm guessing the only real difference would be the airplane markings.  A Measure 12 Graded scheme would stand out nicely against all the 21s I seem to be filling my cabinet with.  I'm not sure if I'll Pontos it or not.  Those sets usually run more than the kits themselves.  I do have their set for Zvezda's Dreadnought, which I'm happy with.

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Post #: 139
RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships - 5/27/2015 10:42:49 PM   
wdolson

 

Posts: 10398
Joined: 6/28/2006
From: Near Portland, OR
Status: offline 		I'm not 100% sure, but I think while the Yorktown was under repair after Coral Sea some AA was added.

Bill

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Post #: 140
RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships - 5/28/2015 12:35:28 AM   
Mundy


Posts: 2869
Joined: 6/26/2002
From: Neenah
Status: offline 		The Yorktown thread discussing every detail is here.

Model Warships

It's been a while since I read too deeply, but I think the feeling was she added some extra 20mm guns while keeping all the .50 she had on board.

Here's what the hull looked like before TOMLABEL's sanding job. It is a bit overdone.




Attachment (1)

< Message edited by Mundy -- 5/28/2015 1:36:01 AM >

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Post #: 141
RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships - 5/28/2015 1:56:56 AM   
wdolson

 

Posts: 10398
Joined: 6/28/2006
From: Near Portland, OR
Status: offline 		I think it would be easier to use filler than sand down all that detail. Trumpeter/Hobby Boss/Merit has a history of adding tons of detail to their kits as well as using the cutting edge mold making techniques, but getting critical details wrong. Aircraft model reviews are extremely critical of releases from these companies.

And on a tangent, I came across this several years ago, it's a good laugh:

http://www.modelwarships.com/features/rambling/rambling04.htm

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Post #: 142
RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships - 5/28/2015 2:29:52 AM   
Mundy


Posts: 2869
Joined: 6/26/2002
From: Neenah
Status: offline 		That's funny. I used to be all airplanes, all the time. The USAF part of me screaming to get out.

I've always had a draw towards naval history, and it's only in the last few years that it's shown in my model building. I was in a plane kick for awhile, but then I discovered Warhammer 40,000 and did nothing but that for 8 years. I did learn a lot about painting, which I'm retro-applying to regular scale stuff.

There was talk of using plastic strip to fill the down parts. The downside is having to replicate all the portholes in the hull.

Like I said, I'll probably go a bit heavier on the primer and hope it smooths things out a bit.

For forums, I'm Zad Fnark everywhere else. I was having an identity crisis when I first registered here 13 years ago.

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Post #: 143
RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships - 5/28/2015 3:19:26 AM   
TOMLABEL


Posts: 5116
Joined: 1/27/2006
From: Alabama - ROLL TIDE!!!!!
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: Mundy


I'm not sure I can be that ambitious with mine.  Maybe I can tone it down a bit without purging it completely.
I was thinking the same thing at first because it is very heavily overdone in some places. Honestly, it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. If you spread it out over several days like a week, it won't be as difficult as it seems.

quote:

ORIGINAL: Mundy
I'm torn between a Coral Sea and a Midway version. 

I'm choosing to go with the Midway scheme.

quote:

ORIGINAL: Mundy
A Measure 12 Graded scheme would stand out nicely against all the 21s I seem to be filling my cabinet with. 

Agreed!!! MS12 is a nice change. The other schemes like MS21 and MS12 Mod paint schemes seem to hide a lot of detail that I work so hard on to show.

quote:

ORIGINAL: Mundy
I'm not sure if I'll Pontos it or not.  Those sets usually run more than the kits themselves.


I know the feeling!!! I usually don't go the Pontos route opting for GGM or WE works, but I've waited for this kit my whole life! Saving up money each pay period as the Pontos folks are still working on this set with no release date announced as yet.


quote:

ORIGINAL: wdolson

I think it would be easier to use filler than sand down all that detail.


Not so sure on this hull Bill!!! The plates are heavily molded in my opinion. It would take a lot of filler. Maybe a combo as Mundy has suggested would work.

In my case, I took a deep breath and decided to do it even if it meant I was going to destroy the $$$ kit and would have to somehow purchase another. Thankfully, it wasn't as difficult as I thought. Just got to be careful around the hawsepipes, hanger deck catapult extension braces, shaft exits, etc.

quote:

ORIGINAL: wdolson

I'm not 100% sure, but I think while the Yorktown was under repair after Coral Sea some AA was added.

Bill


I think I recall that the portside 20mms were already present at Coral Sea. Buckmaster had the choice to have the starboard 20mms that were planned installed starboard while at PH before Midway, but declined because he didn't have time to train the crew on a new weapon and ammo handling in just 3 days.

It is also true that the 50 cals that the port 20mms replaced were retained secretly onboard and used in new locations, but were taken down/hidden while in port so they would not have to turn them over as required.

TOMLABEL




< Message edited by TOMLABEL -- 5/28/2015 6:06:14 AM >

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Post #: 144
RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships - 5/28/2015 11:22:02 AM   
HansBolter


Posts: 7704
Joined: 7/6/2006
From: United States
Status: offline 		You guys are worlds above me on skill level. I built the DE England stock out of the box using the stock photo etch.

I've not yet purchased a Dragon ship kit, but I have about a dozen Dragon tank kits and frankly the detail level and photo etch are bit intimidating to me.

I have been focusing on building my lesser detailed, simpler kits like the Tamiya and Italeri. I have well over 100 kits in my stash and have curtailed purchasing new ones until I put a dent in the current inventory.

Appreciate very much you guys sharing your passion for the hobby.

< Message edited by HansBolter -- 5/28/2015 12:22:29 PM >

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Post #: 145
RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships - 5/28/2015 11:51:37 AM   
Mundy


Posts: 2869
Joined: 6/26/2002
From: Neenah
Status: offline 		I have one of the "hold and fold" tool sets for the photo-etch.  Basically, it's something to clamp down on the etch (several sizes of holders) while using a razor blade to make the fold.  They let you work with very small pieces.  I move them around with ye olde toothpick usually.  I can crank out very small pieces fairly quickly with this.  I use a rounded scalpel type blade to remove the etch piece, which works fairly quickly and cleanly, rocking the blade across and removing any stub left.

Pretty much what pushed me over the edge with the York purchase was the included photo-etch.  It's probably a little heavier that what an aftermarket set would look like.

Tomlabel, that's what I remember reading, too.  Before I start, I'll probably re-read that thread from start to finish.

I learned a lot about highlighting with drybrushing from my Warhammer stuff.  You can pop out detail on a MS.21 scheme by doing it right.  You can see it a bit on my Benson pics -- especially on the gun tubs.  I think I used more of a medium gray to do it.

Do you know if there were shields on the starboard .50?

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Post #: 146
RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships - 5/28/2015 1:01:48 PM   
HansBolter


Posts: 7704
Joined: 7/6/2006
From: United States
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: Mundy

I have one of the "hold and fold" tool sets for the photo-etch.  Basically, it's something to clamp down on the etch (several sizes of holders) while using a razor blade to make the fold.  They let you work with very small pieces.  I move them around with ye olde toothpick usually.  I can crank out very small pieces fairly quickly with this.  I use a rounded scalpel type blade to remove the etch piece, which works fairly quickly and cleanly, rocking the blade across and removing any stub left.

Pretty much what pushed me over the edge with the York purchase was the included photo-etch.  It's probably a little heavier that what an aftermarket set would look like.

Tomlabel, that's what I remember reading, too.  Before I start, I'll probably re-read that thread from start to finish.

I learned a lot about highlighting with drybrushing from my Warhammer stuff.  You can pop out detail on a MS.21 scheme by doing it right.  You can see it a bit on my Benson pics -- especially on the gun tubs.  I think I used more of a medium gray to do it.

Do you know if there were shields on the starboard .50?



Yea, I bought what is called the Bug from The Small Shop. It's a mini version of an Etchmate.

It came with the mini metal brake, the square of gloss black plexi as a cutting base and a clear plexi post and base tool that you sue to hold down the fret on the cutting base while cutting the attachment tab.

These items can se seem in the lower left corner of my desk photo with a silver pho etch fret from the I-400 on it.

The kit also came with an aluminum block with various diameter curved grooves in it and wood dowels with corresponding diameters for bending sheet pieces in curves.

It's a very nice tool kit but the Bug is very tiny and I can already see the need to acquire an Etchmate for larger pieces.

I like your method of using a curved blade and rocking it. I'm going to give that a try. I've been using a flat blade and punching downward with it with not so great results.



Attachment (1)

< Message edited by HansBolter -- 5/28/2015 2:04:34 PM >

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Post #: 147
RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships - 5/28/2015 1:51:30 PM   
Mundy


Posts: 2869
Joined: 6/26/2002
From: Neenah
Status: offline 		That is a nice one.  Probably the only downside is dealing with really long pieces to fold.

Rocking the curved blade does work slick without deforming anything.  I've been able to shave off very small stubs doing this.

Looks like the .50 didn't have shields.

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Post #: 148
RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships - 5/28/2015 3:41:05 PM   
pontiouspilot


Posts: 1127
Joined: 7/27/2012
Status: offline 		Keep up the thread...there are those of us that derive great vicarious enjoyment!!

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Post #: 149
RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships - 5/30/2015 3:55:48 AM   
TOMLABEL


Posts: 5116
Joined: 1/27/2006
From: Alabama - ROLL TIDE!!!!!
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: wdolson
I'm not 100% sure, but I think while the Yorktown was under repair after Coral Sea some AA was added.
Bill

I'm not sure when these 20mm's were added, but I think before Coral Sea. Mundy may have more info on this.
(see the black arrows)


quote:

ORIGINAL: HansBolter

Yea, I bought what is called the Bug from The Small Shop. It's a mini version of an Etchmate.


Hans, I have the Etchmate and in combination with the Bug, that might be all you need. I have another device (I can't remember the name of it) that has shapes for making curves, but it seems like the Bug may do this as well.

I can emphasize with you as PE parts really intimidate me!! Sometimes I wish they would have never invented it!!!




Attachment (1)

< Message edited by TOMLABEL -- 5/30/2015 5:22:46 AM >

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